Saturday, November 8, 2014

West meets East

I've been battling a sinus/throat/bronchial infection for several weeks, and although I was feeling a bit better after I arrived, the dust and heat/aircon has knocked me back a bit.   So I used this never ending illness as an excuse to try cupping therapy.

Cupping (Joop khyol in Khmer) is the practice of placing heated glass orbs on the skin to draw out toxins.   It is a normal Cambodian treatment, used for everything from hangovers to severe sickness.

Because this is water festival week, many of the massage parlors that cater to westerners were short staffed, so we had to drive a short distance before we found someone able to do the treatment.  The women were hesitant at first because they work in a very basic shack and usually only deal with locals. Their concern was that I would not be comfortable in their business, but I did my best to assure them it would not be an issue for me.


After negotiating the price, a whopping $5.00, I was led to a small room with a curtain door and a large, but very hard bed inside and told to strip to the waist.   I laid face down, and was cooled with a powerful fan overhead.  It was good, no aircon needed.   Unfortunately in this position I could not watch the process,  I could only listen and imagine what was happening.

Using a metal wand with what appeared to be gauze wrapped on the end (think large Qtip),  the girl set the gauze on fire and fanned it under the opening of the orb creating a vacuum and then placed the orb on my skin just under my shoulder blade.  It was an odd sensation, but not unpleasant at all.   With the placement of the second orb though, I started to question whether or not I had made the right choice in doing this. It was way less pleasant than the first one.   As she continued, and I tried not to hold my breath, the placement got easier.   In about 5 minutes my entire back, sides and the tops of my arms were covered in 2 inch glass suction cups.   Again, not an unpleasant feeling, more of a tight pressure.  Similar to being in a wetsuit.

While the cups were in place and presumably working their magic, I was treated to a nice foot and leg massage.   The whole process lasted about 10 minutes and then it was time to remove them.  Breaking the suction makes a small whoosh sound, over and over again.  Cups were removed and my back was dried off.   Whew, that was easy peasy.   Until I heard her say "Muy tiet" (once more).  Shit!

The second application went as quickly as the first, but was a lot less pleasant.  A LOT less pleasant.
Same routine, swish with fire and drop onto my skin.  This time the fan was off and it was quickly warming up in the tiny torture chamber.   I just kept thinking it was too late to quit, so I had to suck it up.  This time the cups stayed for about 15 minutes, then whoosh whoosh removed again.

I figured I'd be in for a world of hurt when it was time to get dressed, but surprisingly there was no pain or irritation.  Came back to my guesthouse (after a quick stop for "real medicine") and had a fabulous nap.  

It's now 4 days later and other than some minor stuffiness I feel fine.  I still have the purple markings left from the suction, but they've seem to have given me some street cred with the locals, and thats not an easy thing to achieve here.

Overall, if you get the chance to try this - Do it.  If for nothing more than a good, relaxing massage.


Thursday, November 6, 2014

Brokedown Palace

One of my priorities upon returning here was to find a friend who's gotten himself into trouble and is now a guest of the Cambodian judicial system.   I knew very little of the case, only what had been posted in the papers, and even less about where he was being held.   This man, who I'll refer to as "BT",  was reported to have been arrested for being a sex predator and trafficker which completely goes against everything I knew and thought about him.  So, after getting settled in, I spoke to my driver about the situation and made a plan to go to the prison to find out the real story.  

On Sunday we drove to the prison, about 30 minutes from town.  Along the way we stopped to buy cigarettes and toilet paper in the hopes that the prison officials could be "persuaded" to allow a visit
I pretty much stressed myself into a panic attack, as I was sure he was A- not going to be there, or not be allowed visitors.  Or B - he'd be a beaten mess.  

We arrived at the prison about 2pm.  From the road you can only see the tall cement fence that encircles the camp.  There is no large building like you'd see in the west.  At the gate there was a small group gathered, waiting on entrance.   We stood in line and purchased a ticket for visiting.  The 3000 riel ( 75 cents) per prisoner, and from what I could see there was no limit on how many people could enter on one ticket.  Most of the visitors were women and children, all carrying bags of cooked food.
The cashier writes the prisoner and the visitors name on the receipt and sends you through the gate to the next security guard.     Once inside the gates, bags are searched and all electronics, cameras and cell phones are confiscated. Of course today was the day that I was carrying a large camera and my ipad, so I was VERY worried about leaving my possessions but was assured that nothing would happen.

Pass the first check point and then sit and wait.  Being the only barang (foreigner) in the waiting area, I felt like I was on display.  I'm pretty used to it now, from being in the country for so long..but in this small group,  along with my anxiety about what I was going to see, I could feel myself starting to shut down.  I just wanted to GTFO.  Although we were in a shaded area, it was still outside and it was HOT.  Thank goodness the guard summoned us quickly.

We were lead to a small cement "room" for lack of a better description.  A long bench seat on the visitor side of a half wall, and a matching bench on the prisoner side.  The top of the wall is chicken wire, so no visual obstruction and the openings are large enough to touch fingers, or pass items through. All the visitors sit together, and as luck would have it I was sat next to a Cambodian woman with Tourettes who barked and twitched the whole time.  (I wish I was making this up, but it's 100% true)

BT was already waiting when we went in.  He is in great health and spirits and was quite surprised to see us.  At that point  I had a bit of a meltdown.  All of my anxiety and fear fell away and tears took over.  He assured me that he is fine, just waiting on the next step in the legal process.   Here, once someone makes an allegation against you, you are arrested and held until you see a judge for formal charges.  This could take up to 9 months, and you are not granted bail during this time.   BT has been in the jail now for 3 months, and still awaiting formal charges.   I don't want to share too much of his legal story, but most of the trouble written about in the press was inaccurate or just plain untrue.  His crime was being a foolish old man who engaged the services of a (legal aged) prostitute and made some photos of them together.  That constitutes production of pornography and is a felony here.  He is unsure yet what the outcome will be, or when he will actually go to court on the matter.  

Once we discussed the case, we were able to get down to the real business.  What life is like "inside".
He said that the general population areas are 14 man cells with 1 meter by 1 meter wash up areas.  The men sleep on mats on the floor and it is very crowded.  All of the men get along well and there is little violence inside. There are other westerners there, mostly for drug crimes.  His first night in he heard about VIP cells and was able to procure one for himself.   Currently he has no roommate. A proper bed and ensuite bath. He is allowed to walk the grounds whenever he wants, unlike the others who have limited time outside of the cells.  He has someone to do his cooking and laundry.  He likened it to living in a health resort that you cannot leave.  We had about 45 minutes together and then it was time to head back to the city. We made plans to visit again sometime next week.  Visitation is allowed every day, but not very busy during the week because it is full price  ($1.50), which is my most people come on Sundays.

Made our way back to the check in, and was very happy to see all of my belongings intact.  Said goodbye to the barking lady and we were off.   Never once did I have to bribe anyone with TP or smokes.

-Rhonda


51 weeks

Thursday, 6 November 2014.
Siem Reap, Cambodia.


51 weeks since my last post.
Same length as the gestation period for a blue whale.
Shameful.

Welcome to my baby blue whale.


Long story short- I stopped posting because I was planning a trip to the states for the holidays and wanted it to be a surprise.   So, I went home.  Came back. Went home again.  Surprise!  

Moved back to the USA at the end of March this year, and have spent almost every day working on a plan to return.  Fortunately things worked out in my favor, and I returned to Siem Reap one week ago.
Already I've been nonstop busy catching up with friends, and with the school.  

More in depth posts coming later.  Hopefully before the next whale is born.  

xx

Rhonda

Friday, November 15, 2013

just another friday in paradise.

swamped my moto today.  ended up knee high in babyshit green colored muck.  had the shoes sucked off my feet several times.  no one around.  no one really to call.  Dave couldnt come to help because he'd have no idea where I was (even though I was only a couple of blocks from home).

so, i did what i had to do, and pushed the mofo through the shit mud to dry land.  it took a few minutes for me to catch my breath (that bastard is HEAVY), and wash my nasty feet off.   got myself sorted, turned around and headed off to where i needed to be.

point of this post?   dunno really.  other than i realized that once you stop becoming dependent on AAA/iphones/knights in shining armor, you can do just about anything.  


well, almost.   i still can't do math.  but i'm okay with it.


xoxo

Saturday, November 9, 2013

life

hard to believe we've been here 7 months already.   Visa renewals just came back, so we're legal for another 6 months.   Since our apartment lease will be up at that time also, we'll reassess things here and make the decision to stay longer, or return to the states.   My suggestion has been to go back to the US for 6 months and then move to the next destination.  We'll see.....  


Life has been really really good.  Rainy season is just about finished, although its still too flooded for me to ride my moto to school.  Hopefully another couple of weeks ( feels like I say that every couple of weeks!) and everything will be dried up.  

Regular roads are fine, and I'm so happy to be riding again.  I missed that little bit of independence.

School is really ramping up now that the rains are stopping.  There are so many younger children that they've been split into two classrooms, with the basic english lessons held in the main classroom and the beginning students (the abc kids) having lessons in the library.  My older kids have suddenly come to life and are doing quite well.   I finally feel like I'm accomplishing something.  



Friday, October 4, 2013

Saturday nothingness

Saturday, October 5, 2013
10am
Siem Reap, Cambodia


Still sick, but not nearly as bad as I was last week at this time.  Did a course of antibiotics (no help) and a few days of tylenol/claritin/robitussin cocktails to keep myself alive.  Now I'm left with plugged ears and a minor sore throat, but I'm finally sleeping better.  Hopefully a couple more days and I'll be back to normal (?).  

It continues to rain every day.  Hard rain for 20-30 minutes at a time, with short breaks.  Our road isnt completely flooded, a tuk tuk or car can still get down the road, but its really muddy and nasty.  Some parts of town along the river are having some flooding problems, but nothing like they are having in Phnom Penh or other provinces.   It really doesnt impact us much, plenty of food in the fridge and lots of baseball on tv, so life is good.

School hasnt been in session for the past few days because of Pchum Ben (the festival of souls). Yesterday was the last day of the holiday so most Khmer businesses were closed.  Ended up having dinner at a Korean BBQ with some friends.  The food was meh, but it was good company.    One of the drawbacks about living in a town that is made up of volunteers or NGO workers is that people tend to move on quickly.  It makes me a bit sad when my new friends say that they're leaving for another city/country/life.   In reality, I think thats probably how most of the world is, I just havent experienced it much before.

School blog updated here - http://angkorstreeschool.blogspot.com/.

After the holiday break, my teaching schedule is going to change a bit.  Only one hour a day, with the older class.  Its really a benefit for everyone.  I love teaching the younger kids, but I can't speak Khmer, so I have no way to explain the meanings of words in their native language.  It's a disservice to them as well as myself.  I've been questioning my efforts for a couple of weeks, because I havent been sure that I was making any impact upon them.   Starting Monday they will have a proper Khmer teacher with them. A much better decision.    And I have to admit, as much as I enjoy being at the school, 3 hours a day in the heat has worn me out.  I need the break for a bit.

Thats about it for now.  Hoping to have a chance to get out a bit with my camera next week. If that pans out I'll share pics.

-Rhonda

Saturday, September 28, 2013

still kicking

Saturday, almost midnight

Woke up feeling absolutely dreadful today.  Went to the pharmacy and had a blood draw to check for Dengue Fever.  Fortunately it came back negative, so my ailment is just a normal upper respiratory infection instead of something far worse.  A course of antibiotics and tylenol should fix me up in a few days.



Today we had a big luncheon and party at the school.  I had received a very generous donation from a friend in the states earlier this week to cover food costs for the school, so a little bit of it was reallocated for a nice celebration of the new school house and the students for being so good.

I blogged about it over on the Angkor's site...  you can read more and see the photos here:  http://angkorstreeschool.blogspot.com/

I stayed as long as I could, but in the end it was just too hot and I felt way too shitty.  So I came home and slept the rest of the afternoon away.


I did get a chance to work on a new photo project though.  Its been a really long time since I've done anything remotely creative and this is going to take a long time to complete and refine, but I like it so far.   I walk past Teacher Sokhom's house every day and never really notice it, but today the light was perfect and really showed off the red walls of the building.  There was no way I could pass it up.

a couple of quick previews.

 Pich

 Sira

Piset
****


back to bed.